A Day in Hydra

16 Sept 2023

Today I am writing from Hydra – an absolute treasure in the Greek coast, just a stone’s throw from Athens and quite an amusing place. It’s one of the most expensive places I’ve been to recently. I don’t count my holidays to Ibiza – these were before my nomadic lifestyle, and I was able to splash a little more, but since travelling is now my perpetual lifestyle, I try to do it on a budget whenever I can. Having said that, I am not the backpacker type. Never have been.
Somehow I am unable to travel light, so most of the time I’m dragging a large suitcase, and a smaller one, and a shoulder bag, and always a hat or two…

Being that I spend so much time on the road, I just have to carry a lot with me. And I travel in style, so I’m sure you can relate.

Anyway, let’s talk about Hydra – the hidden gem of the Greek Islands. Hidden to me at least, as I only found it today. It’s one of a few islands that you can easily get to from Athens, which makes it ideal for a short getaway. It’s also super-expensive to stay here, so I decided to only spend the day and explore the island, while I booked a stay at the nearby Poros – just 30 minutes on the ferry. The last ferry is around 8:45pm, so I have plenty of time to explore.

Hydra has stunning scenery – it’s a rocky, mountain-type of an island and although it’s not small at all, most of the island is not built up, so everything is concentrated around the harbour and it’s very easy to walk around. In fact, the transport in this island is either horse/donkey ride or by foot, so be prepared to walk a lot. Good that it’s not a long stretch. I arrived from Spitses, which is only a 15 minute boat ride (I will dedicate a separate post to that place as it’s also a must-visit.)

The thing about Hydra, is that it’s perfect for a day trip and you don’t have to stay on the island – accommodation is between $200-$1200 and above. Really steep. Doesn’t fit anyone’s idea of a budget holiday, but it sure is perfect for a day and you can stay in Spetses or Poros, both are really close and way more affordable. I just booked a room in Poros for $50 a night – a far cry from the $200, which was the cheapest I saw here in Hydra.

Ydra (as it’s also spelled) is known as the Lady Of the Argosaronic Gulf, famous for its rich history and culture. It was once the home of many prominent figures, such as the painter Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas, the poet George Seferis, and the singer Leonard Cohen. The island has preserved its traditional character, with no cars or motorcycles allowed, and only donkeys, horses, and boats for transportation. It’s much more scenic than the nearby Poros, Aegina, Agistri or Spetses. It’s also less built-up and this is one of the reasons why accommodation is so steep. Another reason is, that keeping it on the high end, it becomes more exclusive and that adds to the allure. Unlike Mykonos or Santorini which have been marketed heavily, Hydra is keeping a low(er) profile, leaving promotion mostly to word-of-mouth and avoiding the typical media hype. That doesn’t make it any less impressive though. It’s not a party island and that makes it a bit more high-end. I see mostly rich American and Chinese tourists here, less Greeks (it’s way too overpriced for the locals, unfortunately) and the average age is 40+, which makes sense for an upmarket type of a place. Food and drinks are more adequately priced (thank God) with a main course coming around 15-20 euros on average and drinks are not too expensive. Beer is around €5-7, cocktails are €10 and coffees are around €3-4 on average, which is really reasonable for a place that seems so exclusive at first glance. Compared to Ibiza for instance, where everything costs and arm and a leg, this seems very affordable. So, the biggest challenge remains accommodation. This is where you’re splashing the most for. Another thing I really like here, is that the staff are very approachable and helpful. I left my bags with the bar tender for an hour, while I go explore the island, take some pictures and just browse around. He had no problem with that. And this is at one of the busiest bars here, right on the rocks, with the most incredible view.

Arriving at the port the first thing you see is the big rock that rises imperiously, with lots of old stone houses and well-preserved mansions climbing far up. You will want to get started with the exploring right away and rightly so. Take a walk by the port, there are plenty of shops and cafes around. To the left is the Mandraki, the war port of the island during the Revolution. This beautiful hike route by the sea passes by the Historical Archive Museum of Hydra but also the House of the Tsamadou family, where the Merchant Marine Academy is housed.

If you choose to head to the other side, make a stop at the Dormition of Theotokos Monastery which is also the metropolis of the island. Built in the 17^th century, it hosts the town hall and the ecclesiastical and Byzantine Museum. Further down that way you will find a huge rotating Sun installation. It’s in fact an old slaughterhouse turned into an art gallery. It houses various exhibitions, so it’s worth checking it out. From there I took a walk back into the port and then I headed further up following the road by the waterfront. This how I found my favourite spot. It’s a beach café called Spilia, it has a stunning view of the island and can get very busy around lunch time, but as the afternoon advances, it gets less and less busy. You can also jump in the water once you’re here, so make sure you come prepared for beach. It’s a rocky coast, no sand really, but that is not at all a problem as the rocks around here are large and many are flat too, so they are great for jumping or lying and soaking some sun. The sun is here until about 5pm and the bar closes at 7:30pm, so you don’t want to come too late.

If you’re looking for something more filling like lunch, walk a bit further and you’ll get to the Sunset restaurant. Another stunning location with a view to die for. I didn’t have food there, but it’s been recommended to me by people I met, so I’d take their word for it. It’s also a great place to enjoy the sunset, as evident from the name. The road splits from here and the left side takes you to Leaonard Cohen’s house (it’s uphill, so it’s best if you’re not carrying too much luggage.) The other side will take you towards the old port and the Kamini Fishing Shelter. Easier to walk and very picturesque all the way through. Windmills, plenty of vantage points with serene views over the sea and the boats, yachts and plenty of swimmers that are making the coast lively and ever more appealing.

Mikro Kamini is one of the very few pebbled beaches on the island that is accessible by foot. Also ideal place for a dip in the Aegean Sea.

If you’re feeling generous, you might want to pay a visit to the exclusive Four Seasons in Plakes Vlichou, where the beach with its cryptal-clear waters will provide the perfect experience, albeit, as far as luxury goes, it will surely be a pricey one.

Although there are plenty of other beautiful beaches that are accessible by boat or water taxi, it is not necessary to move away from the centre of the island. The views from Spilia and Hydroneta are unbeatable, so take your time here and soak in the beauty for as long as you can.

For those who are into hiking, Hydra has a unique network of well-signposted paths that will reveal the natural beauty of the island and there are many attractions along the way. The highest point of the island is the peak of Mount Eros, located 600 meters altitude and with panoramic views all around. On your way to the top you will pass the Church of St Constantine of Hydra and the Monastery of Prophet Elias where Theodoros Kolokotronis had been temporarily imprisoned. If you stay for the evening, you will enjoy dinner in one of the many taverns of the city, many of which are hidden in the narrow alleys.

The walk to the port under the moonlight is surely the best closure of an unforgettable day in Hydra. Enjoy it as much as I did!

Tips:

Boats are frequent from Athens and the nearby islands. You can book on the same day, just don’t leave it until the last minute because they can get filled up. Booking in advance is not necessary, but will give you a peace of mind, so I recommend it.

There are no vehicles in Hydra – be ready for a lot of walking (comfortable shoes are a must). Alternatively you can use a donkey/horse ride from the main port.

While here, don’t forget to try the famous local Hydraika Amygdalota (macaroons), which are not unique by any measure, but a treat nonetheless.